Bebe the Science Bunny: Truth About Titanium Dioxide (featuring Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask)

I have always wanted to really understand what I'm putting on my face. But it's so easy to just be curious. Curiosity without conviction is nothing more than an idle thought. One could say it's almost a wasted thought. What makes it so hard for us to act on our curiosities? You know, aside from the fact that we're already so preoccupied with work, finances, relationships, health... excuses. Yep, I said it -- the real reason I've never taken the initiative to learn.

But that's the old Bunny. The new Bunny is going to sheet mask and research until she's satisfied with her findings and shares because she cares! The new Bunny is going to invite you to sheet mask and learn together with her, because while this post may not be too long, it's going to link to direct sources. You might even start wandering down a rabbit hole, but it will be the most knowledge-filled rabbit hole you've ever crawled into.

Today's Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide (TiO₂)

As I was reading the ingredients list for the Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask ($15 on Memebox and $14 on Jolse), it wasn't the volcanic ash or the bentonite that intrigued me, but the fact that this product contains TiO₂. Uh, why? I thought as I turned to my bff, Google.

I dug through the other products I own, but low and behold the clay mask is the only product I have in my possession that contains TiO₂ listed as an active ingredient (fyi, my sunscreen is zinc oxide).

Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask

Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask (Top view)

Titanium Dioxide is listed second (you'll have to enlarge to see it!)

Titanium Dioxide (TiO₂).

Hello there, TiO₂! Why, you're no stranger to us at all. You're in plenty of physical sunscreens (sunscreens which block/deflect UV rays as opposed to chemical sunscreens which absorb the UV rays). You're so popular, people are spreading rumors about you! You're listed by anonymous internet articles as a 'top 10 ingredient to avoid'. They say that you are carcinogenic, having the potential to cause cancer. Other speculated concerns are that you disrupt endothelial cell activity, thereby adversely affecting wound healing, inflammation, and blood circulation and may even increase the risk of cardiovascular diseases (now where have I heard that one before, aside from just about every pill commercial).

/end me talking to inanimate object.

So, how much truth is there to these claims of staying away from TiO₂? The fact of the matter is that scientific research directly linking the effects of coated TiO₂ nanoparticles on the skin are both new and few (coated TiO₂ nanoparticles are what's typically found in sunscreen and the Innisfree clay mask; it's a whole different story if it's uncoated). For those of us looking for scientific proof Google results are typically very incredible... Incredibly unscientific. Luckily for us there's PubMed. After a half hour of trying to make sense of whether an article was relevant or not, I stumbled across this baby.

It provides for a good read. That is, if you like having to whip out the dictionary to define every other word.

TiO₂ (T-I-O 2) and You.

So this research directly correlates the effects of coated TiO₂ nanoparticles on microvascular endothelial cells (these cells line the walls of the capillaries and are found in parts of the human dermal). Before I go on, I want to make sure you understand that your endothelial cells serve major functions, such as ensuring your blood coagulates so you don't suffer from excessive blood loss. While anyone can appreciate science and what it tells us, we should still take everything with a grain of salt, because you never want to gamble with your own body. Even if this research says TiO₂ in small doses is harmless (which it does), if you remotely think you're having an adverse reaction to a product containing TiO₂, stop immediately. Listen to your body.

Phew, okay, now that that's out of the way, let's get down to science. According to the results of the study any impact on endothelial cells, such as disrupted metabolic activity, was low and only detectable at concentrations of 100 μg/ml or 29 μg/cm² (the fact that both are measures of density is a major pain in the butt). Are you convinced, yet? Wait, actually, did that mean anything to you?

If it did, kuddos to you, because it didn't mean a heck of a lot to me. If you're like me that answer only compels you to dig further. Fortunately for us, they do translate the measures of density into something a little more meaningful to the average person. Apparently, based on a 30 grams per day usage of sunscreen (not of TiO₂), we may be exposed to somewhere between 630 mg and 4,650 mg a day of TiO₂ nanoparticle. The anticipated concentration that would penetrate the skin and actually reach the microvascular endothelial cells is significantly less, at amounts between 126 and 930 μg/ml (remember, sunscreen is spread on the skin, so any particular area of the skin would not be exposed to the full 126 and 930 μg/ml of TiO₂). In fact, the exposure to endothelial cells per area would only be between 0.0126 and 0.093 μg/cm² (Strobel et al. 2014). That's well below the 29 μg/cm² concentration level where impact was noted.

The research was done in vitro, so actual effects in vivo may differ. In vivo means testing was done on a living organism, and in vitro is testing done in a controlled, laboratory setting (cell cultures in petri dishes/test tubes). In vivo is naturally more reliable than in vitro. Also, keep in mind the size of the particles, the quality of the coating, and the existence of other chemical compounds will have an effect on the impact of TiO₂ on your skin. The first two (size and coating) would be proprietary information which we will never know.

Nanoparticle Penetration (sounds kinda... naughty).

Gelaaatooooo. For those of you skeptical about the extent of TiO₂ nanoparticles which penetrates through the dermal, you can read about this article (from 2010) as well as this one (from 2013). I'd also pat yourself on the back for being a canny skeptic. The main takeaway from these two articles is that topically applied sunscreens containing TiO₂ nanoparticles, both in vivo and in vitro, do not typically penetrate the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. This holds truth in the research comment that only a fraction of the TiO₂ nanoparticles from your sunscreen will actually reach the endothelial cells.

TiO₂ in a Clay Mask.

All right, I understand why it's in sunscreen -- it acts as a physical UV filter -- but why is it in clay masks? TiO₂ is neither a hydrophilic thickener (which provides texture and preservation of clay masks) nor a humectant (which adds to formulation and prevents dehydration). So why is it in a clay mask? Well, I guess... for pigment purposes. Whew, sorry, that was extremely anti-climatic.

Final Thoughts.

If you find that your skin is reacting adversely to a product containing TiO₂, I may not immediately point fingers at this particular ingredient. Try looking for another culprit.

Okay, here comes the real kicker: Did anyone else think 30 grams is a lot of sunscreen. On any given day, I only apply sunscreen to my face (with the excess on the back of my hand). Exactly how much sunscreen should you not be using? I really want to explain, but I really don't want this post to go on longer than it's intended purpose (which is a basic exposure to TiO₂).

Also, did you guys know that in order to obtain the advertised SPF, you have to apply sunscreen at a certain density? Yep, now you know... Sorta... A full explanation will have to wait another day. Aghh! So much to discuss, so little time.

Also, I need to sleep. It's now too late for gelato. This is how dedicated I am. Seriously.

Until next time, Bunny, out!

Pore Cleansing Method (using Innisfree Clay Mask and Botanic Farm Oil Cleanser)

In this post: Details on a pore cleansing method, before and after photos, and no promotional links!

Today I received my most recent Memebox haul. I know I said I'd take it slow... But, girl, I am still definitely taking it slow (before this haul, I didn't own a clay mask, oil-based cleanser, or sleep mask *coughs*)! The minimum for priority 2-day shipping for Memebox is $30. That's how much a movie date with a tub of popcorn costs (my boyfriend and I take turns paying for dates)! One less movie = one more haul, and let's be real, the stuff I buy from Memebox would last me at least 30 dates... With myself, but that's not reaaally the point.

So this haul consisted of various sheet masks, [Innisfree] Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask and the Botanic Farm Box (which includes an oil cleanser, sleeping mask, and 3 sheet masks). I'm going to save the actual haul for another post. I am focusing on the pore cleansing method that I read about over at Fifty Shades of Snail.

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Fiddy's blog post mentions the use of 3 items:

1. 2% concentrated BHA product

2. Clay mask (any type will do)

3. Oil cleanser (it is very important that it is a true, emulsifying oil cleanser)

The products I'll be using:

1. [Innisfree] Super volcanic Pore Clay Mask - $15 on Memebox
2. [Botanic Farm] Grain Fermented Cleansing Sherbet - $24 on Memebox

Since this is not a review post, unfortunately I'm not going to go in-depth on the products, especially not after one use. I will say that I loved both tonight!

Left: [Botanic Farm] Grain Ferment Cleansing Sherbet
Right: [Innisfree] Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask

Quick summary of the steps:
Step 1: Start out with a cleansed, bare face. Apply the BHA product over problem areas or entire face. Wait 20-25 minutes before continuing on to step 2 for maximum efficacy. Do not wash off.
If your face starts to burn, wash off immediately and do not continue with steps 2-3. Give your face time to heal, and then attempt steps 2-3 without step 1!
Step 2: Apply your clay mask as normal. Follow the length of time as instructed for your particular clay mask. Rinse off with tepid water. Pat your face dry.
Step 3: With dry hands, spread your oil cleanser onto dry face. Leave in for up to 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, massage the cleanser in circular motions into your skin for no longer than 5 minutes (focus on your problem areas). You may start to feel tiny, loose particles ('grit'). Finally, emulsify your face with wet fingers. Wash off with water. There should be no oil residue.
Going over the recommend massage time may cause irritation/damage to your skin.

I will go a little more in depth on how oil cleansers/emulsifying works later on in the post! :3

Step 1:

I personally don't own a 2% BHA product, which isn't a big deal. The BHA product is suppose to help with the removal of sebacious filament by loosening up the gunk. Since it's not what's doing the actual removal of sebacious filament, I decided to make do with what I had. I started out by washing my bare face with the [COSRX] Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser, followed by the Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol, which contains just a small concentration of BHA (it's the 7th ingredient listed). Took my before picture (I hope it doesn't gross anyone out):

My pores before using [Innisfree] Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask and [Botanic Farm] Grain Ferment Cleansing Sherbet
(There's a water droplet on my nose, can you find it? Wait, actually, don't... >.<)

Step 2:

I waited the 20 minutes for my whimpy BHA product to settle before moving on to the clay mask (as I started watching Hanbyul's Get Ready With Me, a perfectly timed 20 minute video!). I'm using the Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask. Don't feel obligated to use the one I'm using; apparently, any clay mask will do. I ended up using 5 pea-sized scoops (cheeks, forehead, nose, chin). I left the clay on for 20 minutes, basically when it completely dried. Due to my previous misconception about the efficacy of clay masks I always assumed that dry = effective.

Actually. the instructions for the Innisfree clay mask say that the mask should be left on for 10 minutes before being washed off. Since not all clay masks are made the same, follow the instructions for your clay mask or risk leaving the mask on for too long (which will only do more harm than good). - Thanks to Asian Beauty Obsessed for bringing this to my attention!

Step 3:
Wash this off and pat dry before applying the oil cleanser. Fiddy's blog recommends leaving the oil cleanser on for 15 minutes before gently massaging it for 2-3 minutes. I'm using [Botanic Farm] Grain Ferment Cleansing Sherbet (I am already in love with this!). I actually didn't have that much time, so I had the oil cleanser on for 2 minutes (I cry at my poor timing) before massaging it into my skin for another 2 minutes. Afterwards, I emulsified with water and rinsed off. 

Oil cleansing how-to:
For those of you who aren't familiar with how oil cleansers work, they're definitely not supposed to leave behind a residue. Oil cleansers are meant to be applied with dry hands and massaged into the dry skin without water. Once you feel like you've given your face a nice massage, wet your fingers and continue to gently work the cleanser until it 'emulsifies'. For the longest time, the term 'emulsify' made absolutely no sense to me in the context of skincare. Basically, emulsifying with water is what ensures that you're not left with an oily reside on your face. You know you're emulsifying when the oil starts turning into a more liquid, milky-colored consistency. It's also the 'power' step in removing makeup (as in, don't assume an oil cleanser isn't working if it's not taking off your makeup as you're massaging it; the emulsifying step should be doing half the battle).

I've heard that people who leave the oil cleanser on for the recommend time start to feel grit. I definitely missed the 15 minute mark, but I'm looking forward to feeling some grit next time!

And voila (much better!): 

My pores after using [Innisfree] Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask and [Botanic Farm] Grain Ferment Cleansing Sherbet

Final words:
This is not a permanent fix, but one that provides the intended results with the right amount of continual effort. Remember: our skin doesn't get a break just because we stop taking care of it.

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By the way! I know using pore strips also provides instant gratification, but I do not recommend it! See that red spot on my nose? That's irritation thanks to a pore strip. It's been a couple of weeks already and it's only now looking like it's fading. I'm thankful it wasn't a broken capillary (which doesn't heal on its own). Don't gamble with your skin e.e;;!

Has anyone else had terrible experiences with pore strips? If so, I recommend this much more gentle pore cleansing method. If you try it, please let me know in the comments!

With that said, until next time,

Bunny

Why Asian Beauty is worth it (even for beginners)!

I am only 2 weeks into my Asian beauty commitment, but I've definitely got enough reasons for why AB is worth it. I definitely did not expect to feel so satisfied so soon. Especially today, my thoughts have been going off like fireworks. I don't know if the onset of the Year of the Monkey is tickling my inner mojo or what, but I can definitely get used to this. Anyway, it's late, I should be asleep, but I'm not. I know that if I don't say them now, I never will, because my memory kind of sucks.

A little background: I've been an AB lurker for awhile now and recently took the plunge without really having much of an expectation (especially so early into my journey). My skin has always been relatively uneventful post high-school. I get a pimple about once a month, I blot whatever oil is on my face (usually with a Starbucks napkin I acquired during my morning ritual), I see black spots on my nose that I pretend aren't there, and there's redness around my nose. Basically, this is the first time I've ever committed myself to taking care of my skin. My current routine is a 3 step cleanser, toner, and moisturizer (I don't wear makeup or sunscreen, though I have one on it's way in the mail!).

1. Increasing Awareness Due to the Gentle Nature of Cleansing

I used to think that my skin would be cleaner if I applied more pressure. It wasn't until I discovered AB that I came across foaming nets, sponges, and if nothing else, using our hands to lather up the foam. Once the foam has already been created, I was concentrating more on the application and the movement of my fingertips across the skin. I cannot stress how dramatically this has changed my awareness of the texture of my skin and the presence of things I couldn't see, but could feel. The mantras of life also apply to skin: You can't find a solution unless you know there's a problem.

Asian beauty reminds me of Yoga, except for the face -- every movement we make, we make with awareness.

(๑òᆺó๑)

2. Equipping Yourself with Skin Knowledge

I've seen my fair share of blog/YouTube comments stating the extensive use of products in AB routines seem excessive. Why do it?  Do we just love splurging/hoarding? Do we think more is better?

I really want to stress to any readers... *cricket chirp* ahem, that while the majority of AB routines include 5+ steps, it isn't the number of steps that distinguish AB, it's the understanding of what and why each step is included. Take Hanbyul's acne routine for example.  She says, "The most important thing about acne prone skin is to use the least amount of skincare products. Using too much product doesn't mean its getting all absorbed... For younger acne problems, this should be enough *she is holding up 3 products*" (Can we all take a minute to express our platonic love for Hanbyul who is always so genuine and cute?)

The point is, AB is about introducing however few or many products as you need without compromising what you're trying to accomplish. In just the 2 weeks I've started my routine, I have noticed the dullness of my skin hasn't improved. Welps, isn't that a waste of time, then? Actually, wrong! This is just part of the foundation I need to understand what works and what doesn't work for my skin. The fact that nothing noticeable happened also means nothing bad happened. In the future, if something breaks me out, I can compare ingredients and narrow down culprits (like a badass, oh yeh!).

This is not just me trying to see the greener-and-never-been-mowed-grass on the other side (I've always imagined the other side to be maintained by an equally lazy me). This is truly the way to appreciate just how unique we are and how unique are skin is. No one else's routine is going to be the same as yours, because AB isn't about using a large number of products or using the products everyone else is using; it's about using the right combination of products that work for your skin.

(๑òᆺó๑)

3. Having, Well, Fun!

Can we all agree mask parties are the best? Especially when everyone is trying to make everyone else laugh, and it basically just ends up being the most awesome fail party ever.

I recently moved so I don't know any locals, but I am really loving the me-time. I work 6 days a week and it's sad to say, but it's been awhile since I've felt like life wasn't just about eating, lack of sleeping, and going to work.

I'm keeping this last part short, because I think it's mostly self-explanatory. Just remember, life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass, it's learning to dance in the rain.

(๑òᆺó๑)

Thank you all for reading. I leave everyone with a picture of my disguised face (as I was proofreading, I read disguised as disgusted and then I realized it was my words about my own face and now I'm a little sad ;~;).

Welps. Keep calm and keep hopping! Bunny, out!

Laneige Water Bank Double Moisture Mask (the mask has 2 layers and was really hard to put on!)

(๑òᆺó๑)

P.S. Happy Year of the Monkey (but, anxiously waiting for bunny year, again)!

Because, Memebox Haul

I used to think Memebox was a subscription service (with the name, who can blame me?). It wasn't until I saw Pony's "That Girl" makeup tutorial which showcased her very own holiday edition makeup, which Memebox carried. That was when I realized Memebox, uh, sold stuff without commitment.

The arrival of my Memebox haul officially marks the beginning of my skin discovery journey. A description of what I purchased as well as links to purchase the products from Memebox are below.

The gift I received with my order was a Tosowoong Pure Green Tea sheet mask ($2). That sheet mask was like a leech, sucking away whatever moisture was on the surface of my skin. It seems to have some pretty decent reviews on Memebox, so maybe it just didn't work for me (I wish I could just look at the ingredients and go, "OH, THAT'S WHY". One day!).

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Top: Secret Key Lemon Sparkling Peeling Gel, Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask
Bottom: Cosrx AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner, Skin Factory 7 Seconds Morning Sheet, Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream, Holika Holika Pig Nose Clear Blackhead 3 Step Kit

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Secret Key Lemon Sparkling Peeling Gel ($9)

As mentioned in my first post, this product has since been shelved. Not because it didn't do it's job, but maybe because it did it's job too well. While exfoliating, clumps of what resemble dead skin form and I would stare at the mirror in confusion while I continued scrubbing god knows what back and forth on the surface of my skin. I'm not entirely convinced it's dead skin cells, but I'll be damned if it still isn't gross.

Pros: I heard it's low pH
Cons: The clumps of dead skin has to be an unnecessary gimmick.

Elizavecca Milky Piggy Carbonated Bubble Clay Mask ($11)

Haven't tried yet, but I have high hopes for this.

Cosrx AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner ($16)

This is currently used in my 3-step routine. Full post dedicated to it later.

Skin Factory 7 Seconds Morning Sheet ($19)

The thought of only having to spend 7 seconds massaging the face and then 7 seconds patting the product into the skin made this purchase a no-brainer. Unfortunately, I still haven't found that 14 seconds to try this product, but it's queued up for use in the near future (aka when I get seriously lazy).

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream ($22)

This is waiting to get added into my current routine. Originally I planned on having this be the first "introduced" product into my current 3-step routine; however, I'm not sure if that makes sense anymore (because the mature me would wait at least a month in order to properly evaluate my current 3-step routine).

Holika Holika Pig Nose Clear Blackhead 3 Step Kit ($2.55 each)

A month ago, I purchased a similar product from TJ Maxx, the Mediheal PiggyMom SoakSoak Nose-Pack ($10.90 for 5 pieces from YesStyle). I love the satisfaction of seeing dirt - when it's not on my nose, hah!

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Thanks for making it this far!  None of the links above are referral links, but I owe it to myself to at least provide it once [Referral link].  You will get 20% off your first purchase and I will receive a $10 credit.  Of course, if you'd rather not click on the referral link, no harm, no foul, you can either go directly to Memebox or click any of the links to the products above.  Welps, until next time!

With s2, Bunny

Hello AB World ⌒(=∵=)⌒

SecretKey's Lemon Sparkling Peeling Gel

For the better part of my life I was able to get away without doing things.  I used to have super fast metabolism (which I noticed isn't the case since about a year ago).  Post-high school all of my acne had disappeared and I was left with a single acne scar that might as well be invisible to the world.

I honestly thought I had great skin.  What I witnessed on Korean variety shows and k-dramas, I chalked it up to makeup or surgery.  It's not because skin can actually be THAT perfect.

So, obviously false impressions aside, I've taken the oath to be loyal to my skin.  I will put coach potato duties on hold just long enough for me to commit to this.

Confession: I don't already have a routine, because I never took care of my skin.  I've been reading various blogs telling me to cycle Asian skincare into my current routine one at a time, but that's pretty much impossible.  I don't wear make-up so I decided the best bet was to start out with 3 products (cleanser, toner, and moisturizer) and go from there.

Wait, let me backtrack.  Before I narrowed my pilot routine to those 3 products, I (ignorantly) started with this lemon sparkling peeling gel.  I used it twice in one week and felt saw my face starting to peel in tiny patches (to be honest I didn't feel anything).  Good sign, bad sign?   The idea is that maybe a year down the road I can look back on this post and enlighten my former self.  It's been 2 weeks since that week, and I've since shelved this product.

I've been diligently committing to my 3-step routine and there is already so much I want to write about.  All I can reaveal tonight is: This is going to be one hell of a skin discovery journey.

With s2, Bunny