Bebe the Science Bunny: Truth About Titanium Dioxide (featuring Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask)

I have always wanted to really understand what I'm putting on my face. But it's so easy to just be curious. Curiosity without conviction is nothing more than an idle thought. One could say it's almost a wasted thought. What makes it so hard for us to act on our curiosities? You know, aside from the fact that we're already so preoccupied with work, finances, relationships, health... excuses. Yep, I said it -- the real reason I've never taken the initiative to learn.

But that's the old Bunny. The new Bunny is going to sheet mask and research until she's satisfied with her findings and shares because she cares! The new Bunny is going to invite you to sheet mask and learn together with her, because while this post may not be too long, it's going to link to direct sources. You might even start wandering down a rabbit hole, but it will be the most knowledge-filled rabbit hole you've ever crawled into.

Today's Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide (TiO₂)

As I was reading the ingredients list for the Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask ($15 on Memebox and $14 on Jolse), it wasn't the volcanic ash or the bentonite that intrigued me, but the fact that this product contains TiO₂. Uh, why? I thought as I turned to my bff, Google.

I dug through the other products I own, but low and behold the clay mask is the only product I have in my possession that contains TiO₂ listed as an active ingredient (fyi, my sunscreen is zinc oxide).

Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask

Innisfree Super Volcanic Pore Clay Mask (Top view)

Titanium Dioxide is listed second (you'll have to enlarge to see it!)

Titanium Dioxide (TiO₂).

Hello there, TiO₂! Why, you're no stranger to us at all. You're in plenty of physical sunscreens (sunscreens which block/deflect UV rays as opposed to chemical sunscreens which absorb the UV rays). You're so popular, people are spreading rumors about you! You're listed by anonymous internet articles as a 'top 10 ingredient to avoid'. They say that you are carcinogenic, having the potential to cause cancer. Other speculated concerns are that you disrupt endothelial cell activity, thereby adversely affecting wound healing, inflammation, and blood circulation and may even increase the risk of cardiovascular diseases (now where have I heard that one before, aside from just about every pill commercial).

/end me talking to inanimate object.

So, how much truth is there to these claims of staying away from TiO₂? The fact of the matter is that scientific research directly linking the effects of coated TiO₂ nanoparticles on the skin are both new and few (coated TiO₂ nanoparticles are what's typically found in sunscreen and the Innisfree clay mask; it's a whole different story if it's uncoated). For those of us looking for scientific proof Google results are typically very incredible... Incredibly unscientific. Luckily for us there's PubMed. After a half hour of trying to make sense of whether an article was relevant or not, I stumbled across this baby.

It provides for a good read. That is, if you like having to whip out the dictionary to define every other word.

TiO₂ (T-I-O 2) and You.

So this research directly correlates the effects of coated TiO₂ nanoparticles on microvascular endothelial cells (these cells line the walls of the capillaries and are found in parts of the human dermal). Before I go on, I want to make sure you understand that your endothelial cells serve major functions, such as ensuring your blood coagulates so you don't suffer from excessive blood loss. While anyone can appreciate science and what it tells us, we should still take everything with a grain of salt, because you never want to gamble with your own body. Even if this research says TiO₂ in small doses is harmless (which it does), if you remotely think you're having an adverse reaction to a product containing TiO₂, stop immediately. Listen to your body.

Phew, okay, now that that's out of the way, let's get down to science. According to the results of the study any impact on endothelial cells, such as disrupted metabolic activity, was low and only detectable at concentrations of 100 μg/ml or 29 μg/cm² (the fact that both are measures of density is a major pain in the butt). Are you convinced, yet? Wait, actually, did that mean anything to you?

If it did, kuddos to you, because it didn't mean a heck of a lot to me. If you're like me that answer only compels you to dig further. Fortunately for us, they do translate the measures of density into something a little more meaningful to the average person. Apparently, based on a 30 grams per day usage of sunscreen (not of TiO₂), we may be exposed to somewhere between 630 mg and 4,650 mg a day of TiO₂ nanoparticle. The anticipated concentration that would penetrate the skin and actually reach the microvascular endothelial cells is significantly less, at amounts between 126 and 930 μg/ml (remember, sunscreen is spread on the skin, so any particular area of the skin would not be exposed to the full 126 and 930 μg/ml of TiO₂). In fact, the exposure to endothelial cells per area would only be between 0.0126 and 0.093 μg/cm² (Strobel et al. 2014). That's well below the 29 μg/cm² concentration level where impact was noted.

The research was done in vitro, so actual effects in vivo may differ. In vivo means testing was done on a living organism, and in vitro is testing done in a controlled, laboratory setting (cell cultures in petri dishes/test tubes). In vivo is naturally more reliable than in vitro. Also, keep in mind the size of the particles, the quality of the coating, and the existence of other chemical compounds will have an effect on the impact of TiO₂ on your skin. The first two (size and coating) would be proprietary information which we will never know.

Nanoparticle Penetration (sounds kinda... naughty).

Gelaaatooooo. For those of you skeptical about the extent of TiO₂ nanoparticles which penetrates through the dermal, you can read about this article (from 2010) as well as this one (from 2013). I'd also pat yourself on the back for being a canny skeptic. The main takeaway from these two articles is that topically applied sunscreens containing TiO₂ nanoparticles, both in vivo and in vitro, do not typically penetrate the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin. This holds truth in the research comment that only a fraction of the TiO₂ nanoparticles from your sunscreen will actually reach the endothelial cells.

TiO₂ in a Clay Mask.

All right, I understand why it's in sunscreen -- it acts as a physical UV filter -- but why is it in clay masks? TiO₂ is neither a hydrophilic thickener (which provides texture and preservation of clay masks) nor a humectant (which adds to formulation and prevents dehydration). So why is it in a clay mask? Well, I guess... for pigment purposes. Whew, sorry, that was extremely anti-climatic.

Final Thoughts.

If you find that your skin is reacting adversely to a product containing TiO₂, I may not immediately point fingers at this particular ingredient. Try looking for another culprit.

Okay, here comes the real kicker: Did anyone else think 30 grams is a lot of sunscreen. On any given day, I only apply sunscreen to my face (with the excess on the back of my hand). Exactly how much sunscreen should you not be using? I really want to explain, but I really don't want this post to go on longer than it's intended purpose (which is a basic exposure to TiO₂).

Also, did you guys know that in order to obtain the advertised SPF, you have to apply sunscreen at a certain density? Yep, now you know... Sorta... A full explanation will have to wait another day. Aghh! So much to discuss, so little time.

Also, I need to sleep. It's now too late for gelato. This is how dedicated I am. Seriously.

Until next time, Bunny, out!